Provence in Winter: Our Getaway Ideas in the Var
Winter reveals another side of Provence. The colours soften, the light glides across the landscape, and a sense of serenity settles over us. It’s a season that invites you to slow down, observe, and take the time to discover the region in a new seasonal light. Villages and hiking trails are explored without crowds, open tables invite conversation, and art and heritage sites can be visited at leisure and with ease. Here are a few ideas to help you make the most of your stay in the Var this winter, with Cotignac as your starting point.
Sport and nature: Provence and the great outdoors
Around Cotignac, hiking trails are in abundance Heading towards Gros Bessillon, the highest point in the Var region, you will find sweeping views of Provence Verte. Further south, around the Sainte-Baume hills, a well-known hike along the GR9 trail leads to the Grotto of Mary Magdalene, a pilgrimage site nestled in the heart of a nationally-protected forest. To the north, the Canal Keeper’s Trail in the lower Verdon Gorge unfolds along the water’s edge, which is a particularly peaceful setting out of season.
Winter is also ideal for electric bike rides. From Cotignac, several marked routes allow you to explore the Var countryside at your own pace, between vineyards, olive groves, and charming villages. These routes lend themselves to easy stops at restaurants or wineries, where you can punctuate your escapade with meals or tastings of local wines.
Golf is another way to enjoy the Provençal countryside; about thirty minutes from Lou Calen, the Barbaroux golf course stands out as one of the most remarkable in Europe. Designed by Pete Dye and PB Dye, it stretches across 87 hectares of rolling hills dotted with pines and oak trees. This golf course impresses all with the diversity of its fairways and its eco-responsible approach to biodiversity.
Art and Heritage: Two Inspiring Places to Discover Off-Season
A few kilometers from Cotignac, the Thoronet Abbey is one of the most beautiful Cistercian monasteries in Provence. Founded in the 12th century, it is distinguished by the strict simplicity of its architecture. The shape, the acoustics, and the interplay of light and shadow give the visit an almost sensory dimension. Beyond its heritage value, the abbey hosts temporary exhibitions of contemporary art and photography.
In Flassans-sur-Issole, the Commanderie de Peyrassol is developing a major artistic project in the heart of its vineyard. The sculpture park, open to the public all year round, invites visitors to stroll among nearly 80 works by major artists. In winter, the Philippe Austruy Collection is accessible via guided tours through the exhibition: a collection of over one hundred works presented in museum-like spaces.
The Var Region’s Finest: Organic Wine, Olive Oil, and Black Truffle
In winter, the pace slows. Wine cellars are visited at a leisurely pace, and tastings can be truly savoured. Around Cotignac, numerous estates practice organic farming and open their doors to share their wines. Our favourites are: Château La Calisse, Château Carpe Diem, Domaine d’Aspras, and Maison Mirabeau.
In the village, Les Flaveurs du Rocher offers a dedicated approach to organic olive oil. The shop showcases oils harvested by hand and produced using environmentally friendly practices. Tastings provide a deeper understanding of the varieties, aromatic profiles, and culinary uses of local olive oil.
Winter also marks the peak season for black truffles. In Aups, at the foot of the Verdon foothills, the Canut family has been cultivating truffles for over 25 years. From December to March, Lou Calen offers the opportunity to join them for a truffle hunting activity with their dogs. Aups, the Var capital of the “black diamond” truffle hosts a dedicated market every Thursday and is home to the Maison de la Truffe, a museum that celebrates this iconic Var-region product.
The Best Restaurants of Provence Verte and the Haute Var
In Cotignac, Le Bistrot by Lou Calen is a lively spot all year round. It’s a place to gather with friends or family for generous cuisine with an international flair, with a menu crafted around the seasons and the spirit of conviviality. On the hotel estate, the Jardin Secret restaurant, awarded a Michelin Green Star, offers thoughtful and creative cuisine, open from mid-February.
Three other establishments are great spots for a drink or a bite to eat: the Café de l’Union, deeply rooted in local life; the Bistro de Bonne Maison, with its traditional and familiar recipes; and Picotte, which celebrates Mediterranean cuisine in every dish (closed in January). Just a few minutes from the village, Le Clos des Vignes offers a refined menu in a former sheepfold meadow overlooking the surrounding vineyards.
The Var region abounds with exceptional restaurants. In Lorgues, Chez Bruno, a Michelin-starred restaurant, is a benchmark for truffle lovers. At Jardin de Berne in Flayosc, also a Michelin-starred restaurant, chefs Louis Rameau and Éric Raynal meticulously explore each ingredient, seeking perfect pairings and new textures in food. At Château Mentone in Saint-Antonin du Var, Michelin-starred chef Sébastien Sanjou oversees the kitch
Lou Calen: A Provençal Winter Retreat
The hotel’s rooms and suites are divided between the historic residence building in Cotignac and the estate’s bucolic gardens. Some guest bedrooms feature a fireplace or stove, a hearty presence that warms both the space and the soul.
Your stay can be filled with moments of pure bliss: soothing Ayurvedic massages, a Japanese Kobido facial, Access Bars sporty sessions, yoga, or a sound bath. To stay active, four sports coaches offer a range of sessions, from Pilates to tai chi. The three hectares of natural surroundings, the tennis court, and the village’s proximity on foot provide true freedom of movement for every guest.
The winter season can be punctuated by a programme of creative and gourmet experiences. On weekends, Lou Calen hosts workshops—wild basketry, clay modeling, wood carving, drawing, and watercolour painting. At Le Bistrot by Lou Calen, Sundays hold a special brunch at midday, followed by themed foodie evenings with Italian, Alsatian, Louisiana, or Asian influences. Just a short walk away on Cours Gambetta, the bar O’Fadoli offers pastis tastings and every Tuesday morning during the Cotignac market platters of oysters paired with white wine.
Provence in wintertime reveals a more intimate side to life, perfect for slowing down, connecting with others, and enjoying life’s simple pleasures.
